MRP do a similar system although it look a bit too downhilly for my nice new frame. I did it, didnt weigh the 2 for difference, but would be very supprised if it added up to 1lb difference… Still I stick by my comments its not worth the saving especially if its your 1 bike, I did a reasonably hilly chilterns k offroad sportive on mine but there was times when I really fancied the luxury of a granny ring to drop into, then there was the race I dropped the chain 13 times in 1 hour 20 min ride around Lotts Wood, ordered the jump stop and bash the next day.
Here it is, I was just dabbling with an unrampped front chainring after reading lots of poo on here about it keeping the chain on better. It didnt. A couple of other minor points to add would be to factor in some short chainring bolts for nipping up the middle ring.
Unless you are riding really rocky stuff and NEED a bash, just run a chain catcher, or a extra tensioner. MRP do some nice ones, as do e Another thing to consider is that sticking a bash guard on does add to the rotational mass of the bikes, whereas the new devices just have a 'taco' type guard static underneath the chainring.
Not only is this lighter, but its easier to spin the pedals with less weight on them. Is it just me or does the MRP 1. I mean, it doesn't move or anything, and a front mech is cheaper. I am def supprised by that, did you weigh the stuff you added to keep the chain on?
Still a 1lb saving is looking on the cards. Decided to do it for the same reason as you, its flat as a pancake round here and I found myself sitting in the middle or big ring and just flicking through the rear cassette. Running a 36T single front ring on normal triple chainset with short bolts instead of the normal ones. I use a T rear cassette, 9 speed chain and a short cage X0 mech with an X0 trigger shifter.
Not got a chain guide as of yet, has been running fine and the chain hasn't popped off, but got a Paul Components Chain Keeper on order from here , which should be here by wednesday. More pictures. Still got Eggbeaters and the chain guide to go on, but pretty much done…. Maybe I need 2 bikes again! Up till recently i used an E13 guide ring chainring, and having a chain as short as possible, and didn't need a chain device.
No chain dropoffs at all. Recently started using a rotor chainring, and as its ramped I've started using the Rohloff guide with good results. They'll charge what they think they can get. I know, and agree. Maybe when e13 get theirs in the shops we might see prices drop? I run SLX cranks just using the middle ring. At the moment i'm using the front mech with the limit screw maxed out, luckly I can get it to sit in just the right place.
I am going to grudgingly buy a proper chain-guide at Christmas. Have just posted another thread on this topic as didn't see this one but will move it over here. Here were my questions — plus my responses from reading this thread in caps:. Do I run a standard cassette on the back?
Up to 34T? Do I run a standard chain? Can I run a short cage rear mech? Do I need an external BB? Anything else to bear in mind?
Typically 32 teeth would give a useable range of gears. You need to be able to fit the chainring on the middle of the crank for the best chainline, and I suspect 22 teeth wouldn't work. No special cranks required I use Shimano LX.
You will need short chainring bolts if you use a single ring with no bashguard. You will need some sort of device to stop the chain falling off, like an XC chainguard i. Te rest of my drivetrain will consist of an X. Posted: Jun 28, at My other option would be to go with a 1x10 setup using the Sram X.
I don't know. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I order anything but help or not I'll likely order my parts in the next week so feel free to chime in. Posted: Aug 17, at If you have alot of downhills you may spin out w a 48t. I have a commuter w c x42 with 36x48 and it seems pretty good for commutes.
Another bike has c x 38 with 44 t and its way too low. Spins out easy on most hills. Posted: Aug 21, at If its a full 29" tire, and not some touring tire, then it should be enough gearing to ride a road tour. If you think about it, "low" gearing on a traditionally triple ring touring road bike used to be a 30T ring to a 25T cog, with 27" tires. That's
0コメント